A Basic Guide to How Custom Jewelry is Created with Art of Gold Granulation

Gold Granulation jewelry is just gorgeous, right? As an ancient art, gold granulation has been around for thousands of years.

But have you ever wondered exactly how jewelers manage to make these elaborate granulation pieces? Let's unlock the secrets behind the stunning art of granulated gold.

Hard Facts on Soft Metals

Gold and electrum (the gold + silver blend) make beautiful jewelry. But these metals are super soft and malleable.

So how did ancient smiths get those little round gold balls to stick on firmly and not fall off? The key lies in using high heat and chemistry to create strong bonds between the beads and the base metal.

Hard Soldering by Hand

One very tiring way to attach the beads is through hard soldering. This means the jeweler physically places each tiny gold sphere where they want it using tweezers or a small brush. Just lightly pressing embeds the bead onto the base.

Then, using a soldering tip, they carefully heat the exact spot where the bead meets the base to fuse them together. Now imagine doing that potentially thousands of times for a single piece!

It's easy to see why few choose to granulate this way - it takes crazy amounts of time and work.

Puddling Problems

One upgraded method from hard soldering uses a paste flux mixture. The jeweler dabs flux on the base and sprinkles over gold beads. Heating melts the solder in the paste to attach the beads.

But this leaves ugly, gloppy solder residue blobs around each bead. No bueno! The jeweler then has to slowly file and polish away all those messy solder puddles. Super tedious stuff.

Finessing the Fuse

Experts think gifted Etruscan jewelers used a much slicker method called fusion bonding. Here, the base and beads have the same gold alloy.

The jeweler lightly brushes diluted flux onto the base to temporarily hold the beads in place. Then into a furnace without oxygen it goes. At the alloy's melting point, the base and beads magically fuse together right where they touch.

Lacking oxygen prevents oxidation, so the flux burns away without a trace. This gives flawless connections with no icky solder!

Hard Soldering by Hand

Let's rewind back to the ultra labor-intensive way of attaching beads - hard soldering. This means manually placing each tiny gold sphere with tweezers or a brush. Just lightly pressing embeds it onto the base.

Then, using a solder tip, they carefully heat the exact spot where the bead meets the base, fusing them together. Now envision doing that potentially thousands of times for one piece!

It's clear why few granulate this way - it takes forever and a day.

Colloidal "Glue" for the Win!

Other historians think Etruscans perfected colloidal soldering instead. This uses a plant gum and copper salts mixture as glue on the base gold. The gum temporarily sticks the beads.

Fire up the furnace, the gum burns off, copper seeps into the gaps between beads and base. At 890°C, the copper enables super strong bonds to form.

Less heat is needed, so the beads don't risk melting before setting. Either way, Etruscan jewelers had some serious skills!

Cleaning and Polishing

Once fused, the final steps are cleaning and polishing. Removing burnt flux restores the gold's shine. Tumbling in soapy water works for production pieces.

For hand-finished work, jewelers gently scrub with a bristle brush. Finally, they hand polish the whole piece to a glossy glow.

Now you can truly appreciate the insane skill and artistry required! Granulation is nothing short of incredible.

Final Thoughts

Granulation jewelry remains beloved today - over 3000 years since it was invented! The irresistible shine and intricate patterns appeal across ages.

And knowing the process makes the pieces even more precious. The careful techniques used to create custom granulated jewelry describes true craftsmanship.

A Journey Through the Diverse Gemstones of Luna Felix Goldsmith from Black Opal to Champagne Diamond

Luna Felix Goldsmith is renowned for its exquisite jewelry, which features rare and unique gemstones from across the globe. Their latest collections highlight a breathtaking array of precious stones, many uncommon and distinctive in color or optical phenomena. Let's explore some of the glimmering gems that make these accessories into true works of wearable art by jewelry designer Luna Felix.

Black Opal

A few stones intrigue quite like black opal. Its dark body tone perfectly showcases the extraordinary play of color within. Fiery red, green, blue, and yellow streaks shimmer amidst the night-like background.

Found in Australia, the black opal's rarity and mystique have made it one of the most coveted opal varieties. Luna Felix's black opal pieces display the gem's remarkable ability to diffract light into a dancing spectrum of color.

Morganite

With its soft peach-pink hue, morganite exudes femininity and charm. Its pastel color beautifully compliments all skin tones.

First discovered in 1911, beryllium stone is named after the American financier J.P. Morgan. Luna Felix uses large, cushion-cut morganites for maximum sparkle. The transparency of these gems gives them an inviting warmth and clarity.

Aquamarine

The pale blue brilliance of aquamarine conjures images of tranquil seawater. With a color reminiscent of tropical lagoons, it's no wonder this gem evokes such relaxation.

Since ancient times, aquamarine has symbolized calmness, clarity, and psychic abilities. Luna Felix hand selects aquamarines with an unparalleled limpid blue for their striking light blue designs.

Opal

No gemstone rivals the cosmic beauty of opal with its kaleidoscopic play of color. The opal's internal structure enables it to diffract light into flashes of rainbow hues.

Mined mainly in Australia, the angle viewed gives opal its hypnotic spectrum. Luna Felix chooses opals remarkable for their vibrant reds, greens, yellows, and blues for bold statement pieces.

Tourmaline

Tourmaline displays every color of the rainbow. Some magnificent examples are many hues at once. This diversity makes tourmaline ideal for vibrant jewelry.

This complex mineral can also become electrically charged through heat and pressure. Luna Felix adorns earrings, bracelets, and necklaces with tourmalines that are full of life and fire.

Diamond

Universally treasured for its brilliance and endurance, diamond is the hardest substance on Earth. When expertly cut, its refractive power and adamantine luster are unmatched.

As one of the traditional cardinal gems, the diamond is a cultural symbol of invincibility. Luna Felix meticulously selects diamonds for their exceptional clarity, carat, cut, and color.

Ruby

Nothing exudes passion and vitality quite like an enigmatic ruby. Its rich, blood-red color speaks to the very essence of life. In ancient times, rubies were believed to boil in their color from an inner inextinguishable fire.

Ruby has held deep significance across cultures as a symbol of love, passion, courage, emotion, and vibrancy. Luna Felix's designs feature rubies with a luxurious crimson hue.

Abalone Pearl

Unlike traditional pearls, abalone pearls form in sea snails, known as abalone. Their origin gives them an exceptionally bright, iridescent finish.

The versatile abalone makes seafood and pearls, primarily living off the coast of California and Australia. Luna Felix uses iridescent abalone pearls in one-of-a-kind accessories.

South Sea Pearl

Hailing from the South Seas of Australia, South Sea pearls are impressive in size and superior luster. Their refined quality comes from Pinctada maxima oysters.

South Sea pearls typically glow in white, golden, and cream hues. Meticulously matched strands adorn Luna Felix chokers and double-strand designs. Their substantial size provides a sumptuous elegance.

Star Sapphire

Star sapphires showcase an optical phenomenon known as asterism. This star effect comes from tiny fibers of rutile aligned within the gem.

From India and Sri Lanka, these sapphires display mesmerizing six-rayed stars. Luna Felix selectively harvests rare specimens exhibiting strong star effects across the domed surface.

Garnet

Garnet comes in such vivid diversity it can produce any color except blue. Their abundance and broad palette make garnets an affordable way to add bold hues.

Usually, garnets are red stones that span the entire spectrum. Luna Felix handpicks garnets with the most striking tones for a kaleidoscope of color.

Peridot

The vivid green peridot provides a burst of summer any time of year. Formed deep inside the Earth's mantle, peridot is one of few gems in only one color.

Legend says peridot symbolized the sun in ancient times because of its energetic glow. Luna Felix settings allow you to bask in peridot's fresh, verdant rays.

Chrysocolla

The soothing blue-green hue of chrysocolla brings to mind tropical lagoons. First used by the Ancient Egyptians, this stone imparts tranquility and inner peace.

Mined mainly in Peru, chrysocolla's colors invoke healing and communication. Luna Felix pairs serene chrysocolla with minimalist settings to maximize its impact.

Apatite

A few stones flash like apatite. Its neon bright colors and glass-like luster stop you in your tracks. Apatite also demonstrates an incredible spectrum of vivid green to blue hues.

Beloved for eons, Apatite was used in ceremonial masks and carved sculptures throughout history. Luna Felix cuts apatite's crystalline structure to hypnotize light effects.

Sapphire

The legendary sapphire symbolizes dignity, insight, and spiritual enlightenment. The royal blue gems were once believed to guard against harm and envy. Their sublime color is second only to diamonds in hardness and brilliance.

Mined mainly in Sri Lanka, Luna Felix hand-selects its sapphires. The stone exemplifies the stone's wisdom, purity, and foresight virtues. These sapphires illuminate everything they adorn.

Coral

Coral holds a timeless, sacred allure from its oceanic origins. Formed from the hardened skeletons of sea creatures, it branches into delicate porous structures.

Mediterranean red coral has adorned Romans, Greeks, and those seeking protection. Luna Felix sustainably sources coral for jewelry that celebrates its intricate natural wonder.

Madeira Citrine

Madeira citrine dazzles in fiery hues of orange and yellow. First found on the island of Madeira, citrine remains one of the most affordable actual gemstones.

Its sunny colors provide an inexpensive alternative to pricier yellow sapphire. Luna Felix melds Madeira citrine's radiant elegance perfectly into chic, stunning settings.

Green Tourmaline

Green tourmaline contains an explosion of verdant color, unlike any other stone. Its lush green vibrancy symbolizes renewal and life energy. Some rare examples even display two shades of green.

First unearthed over 300 years ago in Brazil, green tourmaline's restorative hue balances the heart and mind. Luna Felix accents its lively nuances in refreshing modern designs.

Sunstone

The aptly named sunstone unleashes a solar flare of light. Tiny plate-like inclusions scatter and reflect light, creating a dazzling display.

Mined mainly in Oregon, sunstone's metallic schiller closely resembles the solar glimmer of diamonds. Luna Felix harnesses sunstone's radiance in jewelry meant for sun worshippers.

Morganite

Discovered in Madagascar, morganite conveys crystal calm with its pastel-pink essence. This gentle peachy beryl embodies romance and tenderness.

Named after the noted financier J.P. Morgan, morganite graces vintage engagement rings and symbolizes new love. Luna Felix hand selects soft feminine morganites with delicate hues for everyday wear.

Red Coral

Formed by marine animals called polyps, red coral grows slowly in treelike structures.

Dating back to ancient times, red coral symbolized life-sustaining blood across many cultures. Sourced sustainably from Italy, Luna Felix artistically melds red coral into stunning, inspiring designs.

Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl

The mesmerizing cat's eye effect in chrysoberyl resembles the slit eye of a cat. This visual phenomenon, known as chatoyancy, occurs due to parallel inclusions within.

These cabochon-cut stones display a sharp, narrow band of light across the surface. Luna Felix jewelry captures the spellbinding cat's eye effect in rings and pendants, evoking a hypnotizing allure.

Sphene

The brilliant sphene dazzles with a sublime fire and dispersion of color. With a vitreous luster, this rare collector's gem showcases spectacular flashes of red and green in the same stone!

Mainly sourced from Brazil, sphene jewelry highlights the stone's exceptional rainbow sparkle. Luna Felix accents Sphene's one-of-a-kind appearance in conversation-starting, light-catching designs.

Watermelon Tourmaline

Aptly named for its similarity to the fruit, watermelon tourmaline displays a distinct color phenomenon. The center glows pink, while green hues ring the outside.

This variety exhibits unique color zoning that mimics a watermelon slice. Mined mainly in Brazil, watermelon tourmaline's joyful hues celebrate summer's bounty. Luna Felix sculpts watermelon tourmalines into delicious, playful pieces.

Biwa Pearl

Luminous Biwa pearls form in Japan's largest freshwater Biwa lake and the Biwa river. Irregularly shaped and asymmetrical, Biwa pearls showcase a refined luster.

These cultured pearls originate from Hyriopsis freshwater mussels only found in Lake Biwa. Luna Felix twins and strings Biwa pearls together for avant-garde organic designs.

Mississippi River Pearl

The Mississippi River once abounded with pearls before pollution diminished their numbers. The few natural freshwater pearls discovered today display unique asymmetrical shapes and colors.

These scarce pearls form in mussels populating Midwestern US rivers. Luna Felix accents the pearl's distinctive natural beauty by letting it take center stage.

Champagne Diamond

Naturally hued champagne diamonds offer an elegant alternative to traditional white diamonds. Their colors range from light brown to a more decadent cognac.

These earthy diamonds display a warm sophistication perfect for modern designs. Luna Felix champagne diamond pieces exude luxurious beauty full of depth and dimension.

Top Reasons Why People Love Gold Jewelry

People have been obsessed with gold forever. From ancient Egypt to today, gold has always captivated folks worldwide. Gold was first discovered and worked by the Varna Culture in the 5th millennium BC and granulation was first used by the ancient Etruscan culture.

A perfect example of the timelessness of gold jewelry is at Luna Felix Goldsmith. And the gold jewelry at Luna Felix Goldsmith in Santa Fe is to die for. Our Designer, Luna Felix, makes gorgeous gold rings, earrings, pendants, necklaces - you name it, using the ancient art of granulation.

In this post, let's determine why people love gold and why you need some gold jewelry from Luna Felix Goldsmith!

Why the Gold of Luna Felix Goldsmith?

There's something about the warm glow of gold that pulls you in. It's almost magical. The rich honey tone is so flattering. Gold makes your skin glow, and your eyes shine.

Luna Felix Goldsmith uses a special alloy of 22-karat gold, as required by the art of granulation.

Type of Gold Used to Make Jewelry 

Timeless Yellow Gold 

You really can't go wrong with yellow gold. It's like elegant, understated glam. Yellow gold works with any skin tone and any style. Dress it up or down.

Luna Felix makes bold 22-k yellow-gold statement rings, pendants, necklaces, bracelets, and earrings that exude luxury. 

If you're getting married, yellow gold engagement rings are a must. The warm yellow metal and sparkly diamonds complement each other perfectly. And Luna Felix can design these romantic gold granulation wedding rings just for you - so beautiful!

Treat Yourself to Luna Felix Goldsmith Jewelry

Luna Felix Goldsmith has been handcrafting gold granulation magic in Santa Fe for decades. Their designer, Luna Felix, mixes old-world techniques with hand crafting at the jeweler’s bench to shape beautiful gold adornment.

Luna works with 22-K yellow gold. The Luna Felix Goldsmith team helps you find jewelry pieces that match your style and skin tone.

So, head to their jewelry store at 116 W San Francisco St # 208, in downtown Santa Fe, and check out the collection! Let yourself fall in love with their shiny gold rings, necklaces, pendants, bracelets, and earrings made using the ancient art of granulation...you deserve it!